Peak Bloom in the High Sierra

Last weekend we ventured up to the High Sierra. It wasn't dispersed camping, but we still managed to find some space to breathe. Just a short drive off Tioga Pass Road sits the Forest Service campground at Saddlebag Lake — primitive by some standards, but with surprisingly clean vault toilets, really cold and good-tasting water, and a 5-gallon bucket provided for extinguishing your campfire each night. The small resort nearby was under construction, but jon boats were available to rent, and the water taxi was running Thursday through Sunday.

The highlight was the 20 Lakes Basin hike, though most of our party only made it to eight of the lakes. The trail takes you into the Hoover Wilderness Area, first protected as a 'primitive area' in 1931 and then folded into the wilderness system with the passage of the 1964 Wilderness Act. Spiky granite peaks give way to marshy meadows and crystal clear alpine lakes, and our timing put us right at peak wildflower season. We had our eyes peeled for pika the whole way — no luck this time, though a couple of marmots made an appearance.

Bad winds kept us at a lower-elevation campground near the Nevada border for the first two nights, which turned out to be a nice way to ease into the 10,000-foot elevation at Saddlebag Lake. And on the last night, the Sierra delivered a proper send-off — snow, thunder, and lightning all at once. Dinner was still a snap thanks to the Overland Camp Kitchen and the Kammok awning. Some gear earns its place on every trip.